If you’re looking for a summer destination in Japan, chances are you might be looking for somewhere with relatively cooler weather, but that can also offer some seasonal sights and experiences.
A good candidate to consider then would be Yamagata Prefecture, up north in the Tohoku region. This is especially so if you are a foodie, for Yamagata is known for summer fruits such as cherries and grapes.
Allow me to share here some of my yummy Yamagata experiences, alongside other eats (as well as activities to work it off) on my bucket list, that I am sure would pique the appetites of fellow foodies and adventurers.
1. Yamagata is Known As Japan’s “Fruit Kingdom”
Yamagata is the top producer of cherries in Japan | Photo by Chin Yijia
You may have heard of Yamagata Prefecture’s nickname as the “Kingdom of Fruits”. This, of course, means you can enjoy a great variety of fruits here, but the most representative of the lot would be cherries or sakuranbo (さくらんぼ), for which Yamagata is Japan’s top producer!
Summer is in fact the best time to do your cherry-picking (literally and figuratively), as cherry season spans a short time frame from June to July.
While it would be easy to find cherries at supermarkets during this season—honestly, most cherries you would find anywhere in Japan would be from Yamagata—for extra fun and freshness I would recommend visiting a cherry farm to pick your own cherries. This is especially considering the inevitable high price tag of cherries, as with most fruits in Japan. With the eat-all-you-can style of most cherry-picking experiences here, you can pick way more than a box’s worth, with some efficiency.
Cherry Buffet at Suzuki Sakuranboen
One of the many cherry farms in Yamagata offering cherry-picking is the Suzuki Sakuranboen. | Photo by Hui Min
Many cherry farms throughout Yamagata offer such an experience, but the one I went to happened to be in Tsuruoka City (鶴岡市), specifically Suzuki Sakuranboen (鈴木さくらんぼ園).
Here, the season typically lasts from early June to early July, and for 2024 is priced at ¥1,600 for 3–14 June, or ¥1,800 15 June–5 July. For a set time of 60 minutes on weekdays or 30 minutes on weekends, you are allowed to pick and eat as many cherries as you can find in their plot. Yes, you have to eat them on the spot, so make sure you leave space for as many cherries as you can stomach (though an empty stomach is not advisable either due to the acidity).
Reach out for as many of these cherries as you can! | Photo by Chin Yijia
If you are wondering why the period-based price difference, this is because the most premium breed of cherries characterised by their sweetness and juiciness, Sato Nishiki (佐藤錦), only comes into season in the later half of June.
I did not manage to make it that season, but the earlier tangier breeds were already juicy and good to me. Do also note that reservations are required for weekends via their website.
Go for grapes later in summer, at vineyards like Colourful Budoen (カラフルぶどう園), also in Tsuruoka. | Photo by Chin Yijia
If you are not able to catch the short window for cherry season however, fret not as there are more fruits to be enjoyed later in summer!
With a longer season between August to October, grapes are a must-try in Yamagata. The colourful variety ranges from the dainty Delaware, for which Yamagata is the top producer, to other well-known breeds like Kyoho and Shine Muscat.
Suzuki Sakuranboen (鈴木さくらんぼ園)
Address: Katakai-362, Nishikataya, Tsuruoka, Yamagata 997-0323
Access: 25-minute drive from Tsuruoka Station. Alternatively, it is a 30-minute bus ride from Tsuruoka Station, followed by 20-minute walk
2. Yamagata is One of 5 GI-Designated Sake Regions
Yamagata sake | Photo by Yamagata Prefecture
Yamagata will also be of interest to sake connoisseurs, as one of only five regions in Japan receiving Geographical Indication (GI) designation for their sake. If you have not heard of this international certification system before, the gist of it is that specific production requirements are defined for the certified produce of a particular region, assuring customers that the product is made through authentic methods from the specific place of origin.
The point here being, that Yamagata is valued as a sake producer highly enough, that they have a sort of patent right over their sake.
This means you can do your sake shopping in Yamagata at ease, knowing that it is authentic “Yamagata Sake” just by checking for the GI label. But again, if you are going to be in the place of origin, I would highly recommend going right to the site of production and joining a sake brewery tour.
Visit A Sake Brewery Tour at Dewanoyuki Brewing Musuem
Observing the sake production process at the Watarai Honten (渡會本店) brewery where the Dewanoyuki Brewing Museum is located. | Photo by Chin Yijia
Of worthy mention is the Dewanoyuki Brewing Museum (出羽ノ雪酒造資料館) in the famous sake town of Oyama (大山), also in Tsuruoka City. The museum is built around an actual brewery you can tour, with exhibits on the process and history of sake brewing (including some English captions), and a tasting corner to help you decide which bottle to buy home. All for a small admission fee of only ¥200!
Dewanoyuki Brewing Museum (出羽ノ雪酒造資料館)
Address: 2-2-8 Oyama, Tsuruoka, Yamagata 997-1124
Access: 10-minute walk from Uzen-Oyama Station
3. Yamagata is Home to The “City of Gastronomy” and Shojin Ryori Buddhist Cuisine
Sunflowers at Yamagata Prefecture’s Mount Gassan | Photo by Chin Yijia
Did you know that Yamagata is home to Japan’s only UNESCO-designated “City of Gastronomy”? By now, you should know that Tsuruoka City is home to cherry farms and sake breweries. So it shouldn’t come as a surprise that this “City of Gastronomy” is none other than Tsuruoka City!
All the specific spots I have suggested so far are based in Tsuruoka City. One specific local cuisine that Tsuruoka is known for is interestingly shojin ryori (精進料理), the vegetarian meals consumed by Buddhist monks.
Admire the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa Sanzan and Shojin Ryori Buddhist Cuisine
Mount Haguro | Photo by Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization
Tsuruoka is an ideal location for outdoor-lovers looking to get some summer hiking done, with one of Japan’s most sacred sites and famous clusters of mountains located here—the three sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan (出羽三山)..
These three mountains of Mount Haguro (羽黒山), Mount Gassan (月山), and Mount Yudono (湯殿山) represent birth, death, and rebirth respectively, thus mountain ascetics known as yamabushi (山伏) have climbed them since antiquity, as a journey of spiritual rebirth. These monks relied purely on meals of mountain vegetables for sustenance, as part of their spiritual training and connection with the mountains while on the climb. As many other pilgrims began to follow this practice, shojin ryori took root as a representative cuisine of this area.
Shojin ryori served to modern tourists at temple lodges like Saikan | Photo by Chin Yijia
Today, visitors can easily get a taste of these ascetic meals at any of the temple lodges (宿坊 shukubo), around the three mountains, such as Saikan (斎館), found at the top of Mount Haguro.
Before casting off vegetarian cuisine as too plain, it is important to note that the shojin ryori particular to Dewa Sanzan emphasises the inclusion of “all five elements” as part of its philosophy.
Namely, this includes a balance of five colours (green, yellow, red, black, and white), five flavours (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami), and five cooking methods (raw, baked, boiled, fried, and steamed).
The result is a colourful and nutritious array of mini dishes, which is sure to be a joy for both the eyes and taste buds, and a great way to try a wide variety of seasonal local ingredients.
While you can try shojin ryori just by dropping by Saikan for lunch or staying the night, hikers or those with a keen interest in Japanese spirituality may want to consider the full experience of climbing the three mountains. Especially since summer is prime hiking season, and mountains are one of the best places to escape the heat!
Clockwise from left: Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan, and Mount Yudono | Photo by Chin Yijia
Public buses from Tsuruoka Station enable planning your own way around the mountains, but if you are keen on immersing in the spiritual aspect, know that local-based company Yamabushido offers authentic training retreats led by actual yamabushi masters, and catering to overseas participants.
Just be prepared that the retreats will require a substantial time and money investment, but that is to ensure a fully authentic and sustainable program that gives back to the local community and environment.
Saikan (斎館)
Address: Haguroyama-33 Haguromachi Touge, Tsuruoka, Yamagata 997-0211
Access: 40-minute bus ride from Tsuruoka Station
4. Yamadera Temple, A Scenic and Gastronomical Treat
Yamadera. | Photo by Hui Min
Speaking of mountains and temples however, another recommendation I have would be Yamadera Temple (山寺, literally “mountain temple”), this time in Yamagata City. Known as one of Japan’s top scenic sites, those familiar with haiku and the famous poet Matsuo Basho (松尾 芭蕉) should know that Yamadera moved him to write one of his most famous poems.
Yamadera’s temple complex blends into the rocky mountainside | Photo by Hui Min
As you may deduce from the name, what is unique about Yamadera is how the temple buildings are built into steep rocky mountain cliffs, creating dramatic and mysterious scenery the likes of classic ancient landscape paintings.
Steps pave the way up to Yamadera | Photo by Hui Min
While this means you do have to do a bit of climbing to enjoy this sight, it is nowhere near as intense as an actual hike, and the route is well-paved with lots of stairs. Specifically, about 1015 steps, each step said to gradually release you from your stress and troubles, and taking about an hour one-way.
Misty views from the mountaintop pavillion | Photo by Hui Min
The effort will reward you with not just said mountain temple scenic compositions, but a panoramic view of the town below, to the backdrop of picturesque mountains.
The great thing here too, as I experienced first-hand, is that Yamadera is enjoyable even if the weather isn’t perfect. In fact, I personally felt some rain and mist added to the mystical atmosphere. The pavilion at the top allows you to soak it all in a comfortable shelter, and I enjoyed watching the train chug by from a distance.
Enjoying imoni stew with scenic views at Taimenseki. | Photo by Hui Min
When you are back down, you can reward yourself further with some local comfort food as well. The local dish to try here would be imoni (芋煮), a homely stew of satoimo (里芋) yam and meat. Among many other lunch options, I sat myself down at Taimenseki (対面石), a cosy eatery with views of a charming red bridge right by.
While imoni is typically an autumn dish, it seems to be offered year-long at Taimenseki, and was still very satisfying on a rainy day. You can also opt for other local dishes such as their extensive menu of soba, and desserts such as the zunda mochi (ずんだ餅) with sweet edamame paste, that Yamagata and neighbouring Sendai are known for.
Cherry ice cream | Photo by Hui Min
If you would instead like to cool off with a cold treat however, then it is actually also possible to get a taste of Yamagata cherries here, in the form of cherry soft serve!
Yamadera Temple (山寺)
Address: 4456-1 Yamadera, Yamagata, Yamagata 999-3301
Access: Entrance is a 7-minute walk from Yamadera Station
Taimenseki (対面石)
Address: 4411 Yamadera, Yamagata, Yamagata 999-3301
Access: 5-minute walk from Yamadera Station
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